A Stroll Down Kuijiachang Hutong

Yesterday I spent a very pleasant but humid afternoon strolling around Beijing’s Kuijiachang Hutong. It’s a miracle to me the hutong still exists. It’s sandwiched between the ghastly Marriot Hotel on the second ring road and the main railway line into Beijing station and not far from the Dongbianmenqiao (Fox Tower). Somehow it has avoided the wreckers ball and being turned into yet another marble palace luxury mall and long may it remain where and as it is – a thriving community of households, small businesses and Beijingers lolling around playing cards.

I was there with Evan Osnos, the China correspondent with the New Yorker (who also write a great blog on China) and we were making a short about my new book on the history of foreign correspondents in China. Hopefully it’ll turn out OK and pass whatever quality tests the stylish and sophisticated New Yorker has (which perhaps my British teeth and 10 kuai haircut will fail!!).

Kuijiachang hutong seemed a suitable place to stroll and film as a lot of foreigners lived there in the 1930s – a sort of overspill from the nearby Legation Quarter. Enterprising Chinese landlords installed western toilets and better plumbing to attract those who wanted hutong life and western conveniences. Among those who lived along what was then Armour Factory Alley were Edgard and Helen (Foster) Snow. It was 1937 and Snow lived on the street while finishing Red Star Over China which of course became a best seller.

If the video ever appears and my bad haircut and London accent make it onto the New Yorker I’ll post a link.