All things old China - books, anecdotes, stories, podcasts, factoids & ramblings from the author Paul French

More Sassoons – Philip This Time

Posted: July 30th, 2016 | No Comments »

The Sassoon family of course continues to attract interest and biographers – from Baghdad to Bombay, Shanghai to Trent Park. The centenary of World War One has seen reprints of Siegfried’s work while Taras Grescoe’s Shanghai Grand features Sir Victor as a major character. Interestingly too Damian Collins’s new biography of Philip Sassoon, a rather forgotten member of the family (partly I believe because he died young at 50, just before World War Two) but once a highly influential figure. Charmed Life: The Phenomenal World of Philip Sassoon is, I think, a very good addition to the Sassoon shelf and rounds out the family’s interests and influences….

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The story of a fascinating man who connected the great politicians, artists and thinkers at the height of British global power and influence.

A famed aesthete and patron, Philip Sassoon’s world was one of luxury and classic English elegance with oriental flair. He gathered a social set that would provide inspiration for Brideshead Revisited. At his famous parties you might find Winston Churchill arguing over the tea cups with George Bernard Shaw, the Prince of Wales playing tennis with Charlie Chaplin, Noël Coward mingling with flamingos and Lawrence of Arabia and Rex Whistler painting murals as the party carried on around him.

But Philip Sassoon was not just a wealthy aesthete. He worked at the right hand of Douglas Haig during the First World War and then for Prime Minister Lloyd George for the settlement of the peace. He was close to King Edward VIII during the abdication crisis, and Minister for the Air Force in the 1930s. And neither was he wholly ‘English’. The heir of a family of wealthy Jewish traders from the souks of Baghdad, Philip craved acceptance from the English establishment, many of whom thought him both foreign and too exotic. He opened his house to his friends but rarely his heart, and as he was almost certainly homosexual.

In ‘Charmed Life’, Damian Collins explores an extraordinary product of an age; a man who, before dying prematurely aged only 50, in June 1939, Noël Coward called a ‘phenomenon that would never recur’.


Henri Matisse’s Chinoiserie Studio, Vence

Posted: July 29th, 2016 | No Comments »

Talking of Chinoiserie themed French hotels yesterday I’ll offer up this picture, by Henri Cartier-Bresson, of Henri Matisse at his studio in the hilltop town of Vence, in the Alpes Maritimes of south western France, with a Chinoiserie backdrop…..

Henri Cartier-Bresson Henri Matisse Painting, Vence, France 1944


Chinoiserie Hotels – Le Verger, Chambellay, Maine-et-Loire

Posted: July 28th, 2016 | No Comments »

It’s been a while since I stayed in a Chinoiserie themed room. Previous experiences of being offered Chinoiserie themed rooms have not always gone well (to see just how badly it can go see this post from 2009 on staying in the “Oriental Room” at the Radisson Blu in Brussels – not good!). However, I’m glad to report that Le Verger, a hotel (and nineteenth century manor house) in Chambellay, Maine-et-Loire department in western France is an altogether much better place to stay in Chinois splendour. And so here are some pictures of their delightful Chinese room….

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American Express at the Grand Hotel des Wagon-Lits, Pekin

Posted: July 27th, 2016 | No Comments »

Quite a lot of Shanghai recently, so a little excursion north to Peking – in 1930. Here an advert for the American Express offices in Peking, which were in the Grand Hotels des Wagon Lits. The Wagon Lits (or, as the US Marines who gathered in the bar looking for women of easy virtue termed it, the Wagon Slits) is long gone sadly. Built in 1905, it was the first major hotel in Peking’s Legation Quarter. Built in Flemish Gothic style (and significantly added to after 1914) it was a natural home for the city’s American Express offices – close to the railway station.

American Express - Hotel des Wagon-Lits - Peking - 1930

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Clarence Doane Hoggard – Shanghai Curio dealer

Posted: July 27th, 2016 | No Comments »

I blogged recently about Clarence Doane Hoggard, who came to China in 1919 as an auditor for the international YMCA and stayed. He eventually went into business with W. Warren Sigler (Sigler died some time before the end of WW2)to run Hoggard and Sigler’s, one of Shanghai’s best antiques and curio stores. Their store was located in the Sassoon Arcade, (part of the Cathay Hotel). The shop was partially damaged in August 1937 with the bombing of the Cathay Hotel on Bloody Saturday. Hoggard returned to Shanghai in 1940, salvaged what he could of the stock and left Shanghai once again for America. His ship was near Borneo at the time of Pearl Harbor but eventually made it back to the USA. After the war Hoggard continued to trade Oriental antiques and curios in America – at the time of his arrival back in the USA he mentioned opened stores in both Tuscon, Arizona and St Petersburg, Florida. He did indeed open a new shop at no.9 East Penington Street in Tuscon called “Tjen” (perhaps someone in Tuscon could stroll past and see what’s there now?). Here he seems to have sold the remaining stock of antiques, statuary and curios from his Sassoon Arcade store.

Just to add to that previous post here is an advert for Hoggard-Sigler from around 1930 and a picture of Hoggard published in 1948…

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Hoggard-Sigler - Sassoon Arcade - 1930


Macao – New Proposed UNESCO Listings – the Canil Municipal & the Ox Warehouse

Posted: July 26th, 2016 | No Comments »

Macao is submitting a few new proposed listings to UNESCO. Among them are the Municipal (dog) Kennels (Canil Municipal) on the Avenida do Almirante Lacerda. There are some older pictures and a brief history of the Canil Municipal on the Macau Antigo blog.

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The other building up for listing is the Ox Warehouse at the intersection of Avenida do Coronel Mesquita and Avenida Almirante Lacerda. It’s an art gallery currently. It was formerly a slaughterhouse, quite close to Macao’s former Canidrome.

Both buildings deserve UNESCO listing….

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One Last Post on old Shanghai Laundries – The Shanghai Steam Laundry’s Advertising Blitz!

Posted: July 25th, 2016 | No Comments »

Sorry -  a third post on old Shanghai laundries (see previous two here and here) – I was going to leave well alone but then Doug Clarke (author of the excellent Gunboat Justice trilogy) got in touch and passed along these three wonderful ads for the Shanghai Steam Laundry Company that appeared in the China Press newspaper….

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Shanghai Steam Laundry Co ad 1

Shanghai Steam Laundry Co Ad 2


A Bit More on Old Shanghai’s Laundries – Just How Many Were There?

Posted: July 24th, 2016 | No Comments »

In case yesterday’s post on the operation of licensed laundries in the Shanghai International Settlement wasn’t enough clean washing information for you I thought a list of all licensed laundries for 1907 might be of interest – note the concentrations on Chungking Road (Chongqing Rd), Weihaiwei Road (Weihai Rd), Seward (Dongdaming), Tongshan (Tangshan), Dent (Dantu), Harbin (Haerbin) and Range (Wujin) Roads predominantly.

Laundries 1907 1

Laundries 1907 2