All things old China - books, anecdotes, stories, podcasts, factoids & ramblings from the author Paul French

RAS SHANGHAI LIBRARY WINTER BOOK SALE

Posted: January 23rd, 2016 | No Comments »
RAS LIBRARY WINTER BOOK SALE
Sunday 24 January  2:00 – 5:00 PM
RAS Library at the Sino-British College
1195 Fuxing Zhong Lu
上海市复兴中路1195号
上海理工大学中英国际学院
Need to update your book collection? Come to the
RAS Library’s Winter Book Sale.
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We are in the process of reorganising the library and have identified many duplicate copies that we want to sell so that we can free up space for new acquisitions. The books include hard back copies, paper backs and coffee table style books, both fiction and non fiction. We even have a few children’s books and books in languages other than English or Chinese! We also have duplicate copies of old magazines and periodicals from Shanghai going back many years.
All proceeds will go into the RAS fund to boost our collection and make the Library an even better place to read, meet and relax with a good book.
The Library is located on the second floor of the SBC Learning and Resource Centre Building (with the white balcony). As you enter the main gate to the compound it is the first building on your right.
Hope to see you there!
If you know other book lovers, please feel free to forward this note and invite them to come too!
Questions? “Reply” to this email or write enquiry@royalasiaticsociety.org.cn.

Royal Asiatic Society Shanghai – 23/1/16 – Shanghai Old Town: Topography of a Phantom City Volume One: The Old Docks By Katya Knyazeva

Posted: January 22nd, 2016 | No Comments »
RAS WEEKENDER 
Saturday 23 January 2016
4:00 PM for 4:15 PM start
Radisson Blu Plaza Xingguo Hotel, Tavern Bar
78 XingGuo Road, Shanghai
兴国宾馆上海市兴国路78号
BOOK LAUNCH
Shanghai Old Town: Topography of a Phantom City
Volume One: The Old Docks
By Katya Knyazeva
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Shanghai Old Town is a history and a photographic atlas of the former walled city and port of Shanghai. Volume One: The Old Docks explores the ancient lanes and historic relics of Dongjiadu, the wharves and lanes outside the city wall. The winding streets in this neighborhood tell the story of the region, the trades, the cults and the clans that made Shanghai a merchant capital long before the western powers built the international treaty port.
In spite of half a century of neglect and mounting redevelopment pressure, Dongjiadu retains a dynamic, unregulated street life and the most varied urban fabric. But the neighborhoods are being erased. The Old Docks is a survey and an epitaph of a city on the verge of disappearance.
Katya Knyazeva is a journalist and photographer from Siberia. She has been living in Shanghai since 2006, where she worked variously as an illustration artist, writer, photojournalist and historian. She has published articles on Chinese cuisine, arts and theater, urban form and Shanghai history. She has been a speaker at Explore Shanghai Heritage, the Royal Asiatic Society, Shanghai Expat Association and World Art Deco Congress. She is the author of Shanghai Old Town: Topography of a Phantom City (Suzhou Creek Press, 2015).

Talk Cost: RMB 70.00 (RAS members) and RMB 100.00 (non-members). Includes glass of wine or soft drink. Those unable to make the donation but wishing to attend may contact us for exemption.

Membership applications and membership renewals will be available at this event.

To RSVP:  Please “Reply” to this email or write to

RAS Bookings at: bookings@royalasiaticsociety.org.cn


Who Were Pickard’s Chinese Syncopators?

Posted: January 21st, 2016 | 2 Comments »

I picked up an old 78rpm record recently by Pickard’s Chinese Syncopators called Flower of the Orient, a rather charming Oriental Fox-trot from 1928.  Who were Pickard’s Chinese Syncopators?

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Well, it seems they were one of a host of Chinese-themed American vaudeville acts of the 1920s, though at some point they spent some time in London and did record in England too. They weren’t Chinese, there were usually about eight of them, and they were probably mostly Filipino musicians. They were a mandolin band (with some Hawaiian guitars and banjos), which was pretty popular at the time and usually appeared wearing Chinese robes and mandarin hats – after a fashion. They were quite prolific and some of their hits include:

You Told Me To Go

Stay Out of the South

Ali Baba

Gypsy Dreams

China Lily

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They made it into the movies too – if only briefly with the 1931 short movie Singapore Sue. This was shot in New York and featured two popular Chinese-American vaudeville acts Joe Wong and Anna Chang. A bunch of white American sailors walk into a Singapore dive bar where Joe and Anna are entertaining. The film would probably be completely forgotten if it weren’t for the fact that the uncredited “Sailor No.1”, who tries to pick up Chang, is Cary Grant – the first time he appeared on film and the first time he used Cary Grant rather than Archie Leach, his original name and which he’d kept when he first went from Bristol to America to try and make a career on Broadway.

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The Destruction of the former Bridgman Memorial School, Laoximen, Shanghai

Posted: January 20th, 2016 | No Comments »

Sue Anne Tay of the excellent Shanghai Street Stories blog brings sad news of the destruction of the former Bridgman Memorial School (裨文女中). As she notes the Bridgman was, “Shanghai’s first girls’ school was founded by missionary Elijah Coleman Bridgman (1801-1861) in 1843. The most famous alumnae was the mother of the Soong Sisters, Ni Guizhen (倪桂珍)(1869-1931). Ni was known to be a bright and bold woman, never had bound feet and spoke English. Now you know how her daughters came to be. Ni’s own mother Lady Xu was a descendent of Ming dynasty mathematician and Jesuit concert Xi Guangqi (徐光启). In Chinese, the building was first called 上海第一所教会女中 (Shanghai’s first Protestant school) or 裨文女中 (biyi nvzhong). Located on a small road Xinlinhou Lu(西林后路) by Fangxie Lu (方斜路) near Laoximen (老西门) area.”

To add a bit – Bridgman was an American Protestant Missionary who founded the groundbreaking missionary run journal The Chinese Repository (about which there’s a lot in my Through the Looking Glass book). He was also later an editor of the Royal Asiatic Society’s North China Branch journal (i.e. the Shanghai based branch of the RAS back then). Arguably it was actually Bridgman’s wife, Eliza Jane (nee) Gillett, an American Episcopalian missionary who founded the school. After her husband’s death she moved to Peking, secured substantial property and started Bridgman Academy, noted for educating a large number of Chinese women leaders.

The school was just outside the French Concession on what was then Fong Zia Road (now Fangxie Road), close to the West Gate (Laoximen and officially the Gate of the Ritual Phoenix) and Dah Ling Road (now Xinlinhou Road). The West Gate was torn down sometime around 1912-14. The school was torn down just recently….

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How Charlie Chaplin Nearly Retired to China

Posted: January 19th, 2016 | No Comments »

It’s well known that Charlie Chaplin spent one day (or a little less than a day, more an evening and night) in Shanghai in 1936 (if you don’t know about it the story is told here rather well). What I think is less well known is that he once considered chucking in the moving pictures business and retiring to China. He didn’t obviously, but he apparently, according to himself did consider it.

Chaplin tells the story in his autobiography entitled My Autobiography”. In 1931 Chaplin had completed City Lights and decided to sail from America to London for the English premiere. He then opted to travel through Europe and head to Asia via the Suez Canal stopping at India, Singapore, Bali and a few other places to get to Japan, which had long fascinated him (indeed had done so since he read one of Lafcadio Hearn’s books about Japan). After Japan, Chaplin sailed back to America on a ship that did dock at Shanghai, but Chaplin chose not to leave the ship. He eventually got back to Hollywood.

Chaplin was not happy in Hollywood in 1932 describing himself as “…confused and without plan, restless and conscious of an extreme loneliness.” He was single and found California a “graveyard“. He was living in a big house, a star, but dining alone each night. He found Hollywood Boulevard and its stores depressing and drab, in the grip of the Great Depression. He writes: “As I walked the boulevards I began to deliberate whether I should retire, sell everything and go to China.”

Chaplin was heartened by Roosevelt’s victory in the 1932 presidential election but still thought he might just up and head East away from it all – “I still toyed with idea of pulling up stakes and settling in China. In Hong Kong I could live well and forget motion pictures, instead of languishing here in Hollywood, rotting on the vine.”

But he never did. What changed his mind? Basically Paulette Goddard – he met her, fell in love and decided to get back to work. So he never did retire to China though he did visit in 1936 briefly with Goddard in tow. She got him back to work and back into Hollywood though they separated after The Great Dictator.

030-paulette-goddard-and-charlie-chaplin-theredlistChaplin and Goddard – if not for her Charlie might have ended up a Hongkonger or a Shanghailander


The Last Days of Old Kashgar

Posted: January 18th, 2016 | 3 Comments »

I don’t really review books on contemporary China on this blog but I will mention Nick Holdstock’s China’s Forgotten People: Xinjiang, Terror and the Chinese State – primarily because (apart from being a good and insightful study of the Chinese colonial experience in Xinjiang and the simmering resentments and resistance by the Uyghur people of the East Turkestan region) it does mention the horrific and wanton destruction of Kashgar.

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The recent, almost total destruction of old Kashgar (3,000 years old and mentioned by Marco Polo) was preceded by decades of slow destruction. At first, after “liberation”, by the destruction (as in some cities across China from Kashgar to Zhangjiakou (Kalgan)) of the ancient city wall. Still, apart from a hideous statue of Mao not so much changed until the twentieth century. Watch The Kite Runner movie and that’s Kashgar standing in for Afghanistan. The destruction of the old town was couched in terms of modernisation and protection against earthquakes (which there haven’t been) but was, as Holdstock indicates, really about punishing Uyghurs for resistance and the reinforcement of Kashgar and all Xinjiang as a mono-cultural state, i.e. Chinese with all vestiges of Uyhgur culture eradicated. One interesting fact about the demolitions of the old town I did not know was that the Communist Party erected billboards indicating that UNESCO approved of the destruction.

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Kashgar – before the bulldozers really got to work

And, of course, old Kashgar was doomed because nobody, at least nobody connected to the CCP, was profiting from it. Of course with all land in China, including its occupied regions such as Xinjiang, owned by the state (Communist Party) then pulling down to rebuild is profitable for the state in an immediate way preservation, heritage restoration and improvement of existing traditional architecture is not. So old Kashgar got bulldozed – Uyghur culture was diluted, Chinese state control of the region (arguably) strengthened and the Party made a profit. Of course, as Holdstock points out, being “Han” Chinese (used in the sense of the ethnically catchall term it is by most Chinese, Han or otherwise) doesn’t help much as hutong and lilong dwellers in Beijing and Shanghai respectively know only too well.

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Old Shanghai’s Ford Taxis

Posted: January 17th, 2016 | No Comments »

Silver Cabs is probably the best known and most often recorded taxi cab firm in old Shanghai memories – Du “Big Eared Du” Yuesheng owned it reputedly. But Ford Taxis were also big in the business between the wars. The Ford Hire Taxi Company (just call Shanghai 30189) had one distinctive feature – rather than ordinary horns the cars all had very loud klaxons, little boxes mounted just outside the drivers side window.  there was a piston type switch on the top of the box and to operate it the driver leant out and depressed it. the noise was a typical klaxon sound but did make people jump and get out of the way – really, really bad pedestrian behaviour, poor driving, jay walking and generally being an idiot on the road is nothing new to Shanghai!

Ford Taxis ad - 1941


Rooftop Watchers 1937, Sam Tata

Posted: January 16th, 2016 | No Comments »

I wrote a piece last year for the Asia Literary Review (issue 29) on the old rooftops of Shanghai (you can get it here on kindle or hard copy). In that article, which comes with some good pictures and old advertising ephemera. Of course you always find the photo you wanted but couldn’t locate too late!! Came across this favourite old picture from 1937 of two very stylish Shanghailanders watching the skies for the fighting over to the north. No idea who these two Settlement Bohemians are – a plaid coat and a white trilby worn just so are amazing! The picture is by the inimitable Sam Tata and  he titled Rooftop Watchers.

Sam Tata - Rooftop watchers. Foreign couple witness 1937 Shanghai battle