Fancy a walk this weekend? In Hong Kong? Maybe try my Kowloon Art Deco and Hidden Heritage VoiceMap GPS walking tour?
One stop is St Teresa’s Church, close to Prince Edward Road West and to the Maryknoll Convent School. It’s an attractive Neo-Romanesque design with Neo-Byzantine influences designed by Adalbert Gresnigt, a Dutch Benedictine monk and artist.
Interestingly both Benito Mussolini and his son-in-law Count Ciano donated money to the church, built in 1932. Mussolini’s name is listed on a founding benefactors stone plaque inside (though later obscured). At the time Ciano was the Italian Consul in Shanghai and probably made the donation on the Italian fascist dictator’s behalf.
You can learn more about VoiceMap and download the tour here – https://voicemap.me/tour/hong-kong/kowloon-tong-art-deco-and-hidden-heritage-in-hong-kong
I write about Emma Pei Yin’s When Sleeping Women Wake, writing historical fiction in Asia and the pressures on first time novelists these days for the Mekong Review’s February-April 2026 edition…..you can read a snippet of the article below or subscribe here
The weekend’s coming…. Piet Mondrian, Irina Radetzsky, Norm Garbo, Walter Gropius, Lazlo Maholy-Nagy, Marcel Breuer – the international artists and architectural talent that gathered in Belsize Park in the 1930s was incredible. You’ll meet them all on my VoiceMap GPS walking tour “Historical Hampstead’s ‘Gentle Nest of Artists’: a Belsize Park Walk”.
But too often forgotten (though not by me!) are the group of émigré Chinese artists and intellectuals who lived there too. It was the playwright Hsiung Shih-I who first found lodgings in Belsize Park when he arrived in the summer of 1932 to study at University College London. He was accompanied by his wife Dymia, who later became the first Chinese woman in England to write her autobiography-“Flowering Exile.” He later became well known in England for his popular West End hit play “Lady Precious Stream” and is known in China for being the translator of J.M. Barrie, George Bernard Shaw, and several Thomas Hardy novels.
Shelley Wang Lixi and his wife Lu Jingqing, both poets, arrived shortly after. They stayed in some decidedly substandard lodgings before taking an attic room on Upper Park Road house with the Hsiungs.
The writer and reporter Xiao Qian traveled around Britain, noting his impressions for Shanghai newspaper readers-pantomimes, pubs, wartime experiences, London’s infamous “Pea Souper” fogs – all from Belsize Park. And of course the “Silent Traveller”, artist, calligrapher and writer Chiang Yee.
Do take the tour to discover this fascinating slice of north London history, the British and international artists, writers, architects and critics who lived there and how they intermingled and overlapped between the wars.
Click here to see details and download the whole tour from VoiceMap….
“Join us for an orchid spectacular inspired by China, as we celebrate 30 years of our much-loved Orchid Festival.
The 2026 festival takes inspiration from China’s remarkable biodiversity, heritage and design traditions, filling our Princess of Wales glasshouse with a dazzling array of orchids and large-scale floral installations.
Wander among dragons, lanterns and intricate plant sculptures that bring to life the beauty and wildlife of one of the world’s most biodiverse countries and experience a burst of colour and warmth in the winter months.
Orchids will also provide an opportunity to celebrate the reach of Kew’s science and highlight the importance of plant conservation and global collaboration.
Don’t miss Orchids After Hours – a series of evenings in the glasshouse after dark.”
Those of you who have read Andrew Lownie’s biography of (former Prince) Andrew, Entitled (William Collins), will know that there is a lengthy section on Andrew’s repeated lobbying in China for F1 boss Bernie Ecclestone supporting his bid to sell Shanghai a GP (which he indeed eventually did). It’s an interesting and somewhat sordid tale (in which i’m quoted a few times) recalling Andrew’s frequent and often last minute visits to Shanghai funded by the UK tax payer as a “Trade Envoy”(*). However, apparently these 5-star visits only ever seemed to relate to Ecclestone’s business interests.
Now there’s a few updates following the release of more Epstein Files….
1) The former Trade Secretary (and incidentally very pro-China) Vince Cable has said Andrew Mountbatten-Windsor’s time as a trade envoy should be investigated for possible corruption.
2) It appears the now disgraced Peter Mandelson, through his firm Global Counsel, also previously supported efforts by Prince Andrew to target Chinese business deals for Ecclestone’s F1 and the proposed Shanghai Grand Prix.
3) Mandelson has been a speaker at the Party School (perhaps as many as three times – he is somewhat opaque on this) and was, at the same time of Andrew’s efforts in China on behalf of Ecclestone, himself pursuing (with his business partner Benjamin Wegg-Prosser) a contract between Global Counsel and then state-backed China International Capital Corporation.
4) Even after all these shenanigans with Andrew, F1 and CICC Mandelson worked closely with the 48 Group (though his and other Labour Grandee connections – Blair, Jack Straw etc – appear to gave disappeared from their website as “fellows”).
5) In 2015, despite his highly chequered past in government, lobbying, and at the EU (all ending in ignominy), amazingly Mandelson was appointed President of the Great Britain China Centre (partly funded by the UK Foreign Office, and hence the taxpayer) who proudly announced him as “former First Secretary of State and former EU Trade Commissioner” even though he had been forced to resign from both these posts!!!
To sum up it is now clear that Epstein saw Mandelson and Global Counsel as his conduit to China and Andrew as a lobbying force in the PRC, all paid for by the Uk taxpayer.
*= On 12 October 2023 at Southwark Crown Court, Ecclestone pleaded guilty to fraud, after agreeing to pay nearly £653m in back tax and fines. He was sentenced to 17 months in prison, suspended for two years.
And a few final points:
Stripped of all titles and military rank the former Prince Andrew, Duke of York is now simply Andrew Mountbatten-Windsor. Recently the Head of the Crown Prosecution Service said he was confident the police will examine any evidence of potential misconduct.
Mandelson was fired from his post as ambassador to the USA by PM Keir Starmer. He has resigned from the House of Lords. The Metropolitan Police are currently investigating him.
Finally, It’s also worth noting that in 2021, while still President of the Great Britain China Centre he was the only Labour peer to vote against an amendment criticising human rights abuses in Xinjiang. He ceased to be president of the Great Britain China Centre in 2023, two years later!!
The Norwegian-built steamship Hirundo (built 1926) was a general cargo vessel associated with trading along the China coast, based out of Swatow. In this instance it seemed a normal pirate raid. Cabins were trashed, stuff stolen, a crew member wounded but fortunately nobody killed (which did happen often sadly). But the pirates commanding the chef to prepare them a banquet and complimenting him on its excellence is a rather classy touch I have to say….
BTW: In September 1933 the Hirundo stranded and sank 22/09 off Ko Sichang, Thailand whilst on a voyage from Bangkok to Swatow carrying general cargo. Both the master and mate were fined for serious negligence.
At the western end of Hollywood Road, in Hong Kong, and on the left-hand side, stands a temple called the Man-mo which was originally – at least, before the occupation of the island – a shrine where poor fishermen and travellers in that locality used to pay their respects and make their humble offerings to the God of the Fishermen and other deities there.
It had latterly fallen into a ruinous state, and in the middle of 1893 a subscription was made amongst the native population of the colony to effect repairs, rebuild a portion of this fane, and add an extra sanctuary to it. The money having been liberally supplied for this purpose, the work was commenced, and was completed for the China New Year in 1894. The old temple now looked really imposing – its interior resplendent with huge brass vessels, incense braziers, giant candlesticks, all highly polished, banners, scrolls and other ecclesiastical ornaments; and the exterior magnificently and tastefully embellished with square-shaped panels of artistically-moulded scenes comprising animals, mountains, lakes, bridges, temples and palaces, all done in plaster and afterwards carefully painted over with specially prepared pigments, which resist the action of wind and weather for ages. The roof was covered with quaint and elaborate designs after the same style but on a much larger scale.
As is customary, each subscriber received a round paper lantern which he burned for three nights outside his shop or residence to propitiate the Gods who are supposed to reward his generosity when they see his receipt-light.
In celebration of this important event in the history of the temple, and to propitiate and congratulate its deities, another large fund was raised among the Chinese for the purpose of having a grand pageant and erecting a reception-house for the mighty Sky Dragon who would come down to see the improvements made in the temple.
Great preparations went forward, and a magnificent spectacle was eagerly anticipated – thousands of sight-seers crowding into the colony from Canton and all parts of the surrounding country.
Outside the temple piles of long poles and bamboos of all sizes and lengths were brought – the former being fantastically painted in various bright-hued designs. With these a lofty scaffolding was soon raised to a height of one hundred or more feet, as the Chinese are particularly dexterous and rapid in this work. When this gigantic though fragile looking framework was complete, huge chests full of light mat-work panels, ornamented with effectively painted designs, appeared on the scene. These were soon emptied and the contents taken aloft and fitted, each into its proper place, forming a complete and gorgeous covering and lining for the framework – thus transforming it into a fairy-like fane of enormous dimensions from the roof of which flower-decked crystal chandeliers and silken-tasselled lamps of all sizes and descriptions, and highly embellished clock-work models with moving figures, were suspended. Round the walls of the interior costly scrolls, some of the great antiquity and value, pictures by native painters and autograph verses and proverbs by famed poets, philosophers and dignitaries, were hung in artistic profusion.
In the centre and at the corners of the enclosure were ornamental stands for the musicians, around which were placed cages with bright-plumaged birds and pots of choice flowers and plants – many containing complete miniature trees, curiously stunted, and other cultivated freaks of nature.
At the beginning of the first moon, in our February, festivities commenced in earnest. A splendid procession, costing thousands of dollars, was formed. It was fully a mile in length and passed through every thoroughfare in the colony. First came the musicians headed by an enormous drum, beating cymbals and gongs and playing flutes, trumpets and other instruments too numerous and noisy to mention; then came hundreds of standard and screen bearers with vari-coloured silken banners, followed by gorgeously apparelled boys bearing arms and trophies. After these came fantastic stands with artificial trees upon whose branches were fixed young and beautiful girls in silk and satin-spangled robes to represent heroines of history and romance. Behind these little “Celestial” demoiselles came the younger sons of Han, also exquisitely dressed, carrying spears and bows and mounted on gaily-caparisoned ponies which were led by male attendants clad in red cloth and bunting. Following these were miniature temples with clockwork figures, the former being made with remarkable skill and ornamented with the highly-prized plumage of the kingfisher. Behind these came miniature “flower boats” each with its complement of enchanting damsels; and in their rear came huge monsters – animals with moving jaws and wagging tails, pursued by a number of half-human monstrosities with animal and reptile heads of great size, accompanied by boisterous clowns and lithesome acrobats who pleased the public greatly.
Following these were more musicians, models, figures, soldiers and standard-bearers; and finally the “Sky Dragon” himself appeared in all its pomp and splendour – with jaws distended and glaring red eyeballs rolling in a fierce and truly hideous manner about their wide sockets. This monster was constructed with wonderful ingenuity – its scaly body, nearly two hundred yards in length, and five feet in breadth, was made with silver paper; and on either side the forms of the numerous bearers were partially hidden by folds of yellow bunting, only their legs being visible as they carried it along, from time to time being relieved by relays of strong coolies.
Onward went the gigantic monster, its side-bells ringing and its myriad of legs scuffling along, to the intense delight of the spectators upon whose closely-packed heads one could have easily walked for miles, so dense was the crowd.
In front of the advancing dragon, danced two energetic harlequins carrying long ball-mounted poles with which they were supposed to direct the movements of this unearthly prodigy whose immense horned head moved impetuously from side to side in a most diabolical manner which must have impressed the awe-inspired spectators with its power and majesty; for they followed its every movement with staring eyes and gaping mouths. It was a sight they would never forget and might never see again.
In D’Aguilar Street some thrifty housewife had hung her washing out of a front window to dry; and as the procession advanced towards the house a great cry of rage and indignation was raised. The vast concourse came to a standstill and every eye was angrily fixed upon those fluttering clothes aloft there. They were a dastardly insult to the dignity and power of the mighty Sky Dragon and those accompanying it, and an omen of bad luck; and the procession could and would not proceed until they had been removed.
The poor guilty woman was nearly frightened out of her senses and wept bitterly that she should have thoughtlessly offended so great a deity. It is needless to say that her washing was soon taken in, and the procession moved on its course – the dragon’s legs seeming to move all the merrier for the short rest.
The poor country folk were simply wonderstruck – they had never beheld or even imagined anything so grand and beautiful before; and would remember it to the end of their days. But the greatest surprise of all had been prepared for the evening. On the newly reclaimed spare ground facing the harbour, another lofty scaffolding had been raised, and this was covered from head to foot with every conceivable kind of firework. A spacious stand had been prepared for His Excellency the Governor, Sir William Robinson and Lady Robinson, and the chief English and Chinese officials.
Early in the evening a steady stream of people began to pour from every quarter of the city, and by eight o’clock there were upwards of two hundred thousand people assembled there – lining the broad bund and its approaches, from east to west, and appropriating every inch of the reclamation ground. It was a dark night, and fortunately continued so.
At 9 p.m. the fireworks were lighted – rockets soared, hissing upward, forming arbours in the sky, while others shot up between them dispersing their brilliant fire-flowers far above; and catherine wheels revolved like golden watermills, showering their glittering spray around and dazzling the enchanted eye. Then a great, deep, trembling murmur of intense wonder and admiration arose above the loud-sounding music and musketry. From seaward there now came a fleet of fairy-like boats. One mass of gorgeous, quivering light, from innumerable lanterns, drifted nearer and nearer; and the soft music of many lutes came shoreward over the water, making merry company.
The wondering crowd had hardly got accustomed to this new sight, when the deafening din of gongs, bells and timbrels again attracted every eye to the eastward whence there came a multitude of sea-monsters, making a grand display. Fishes of every size and description were there, from a whale to a tiny sprat: all moving naturally along in a line which seemed to have no end. They were all lighted up inside, being made of transparent oiled paper, and really had a remarkably lifelike appearance and excited universal admiration from Chinese and European alike. Behind these came the old dragon which was also illuminated from head to tail; and the while procession took more than an hour to pass a certain point.
All in that mighty multitude of spectators seemed remarkably quiet and well behaved and much merriment prevailed. For three or four days the procession moved about, gradually dwindling in length and grandeur until it was no more. Then the well-pleased people, after paying a farewell visit to the Man-Mo temple to make their little thank-offerings and view the alterations, dispersed to their respective homes for an enjoyable outing.
(An abridged version of Charles JH Halcombe’s The Mystic Flowery Land is available as part of the Blacksmith Books China Revisited series of rediscovered travel writing on Hong Kong, Macao and Southern China – click here to buy)
Four Victorian prattware (a style of English earthenware produced from roughly 1780-1840 by F & R Pratt & Co. of Staffordshire) pottery pot lids comprising top left and right – Transplanting Rice and The Harbour of Hong Kong and bottom left to right The Chin-Chew River, and The Ning Po River. The pots were produced by the Pratts Factory in or around 1846 -1849 and may have been influenced by the then Second Opium War with China. The images are reproductions of watercolours by J.Austin from the originals by Thomas Allom in the then popular book China Illustrated (1845). Allom (who never went to China) was inspired well by sketches made by Captain Stoddart (a Royal Navy officer and artist in the First Opium War).
